Venice ~ Dorsoduro
When my thoughts wander to Venice, which they do regularly, they
go straight to my favorite of the sestieri (neighborhoods), the beautiful
Dorsoduro.
view of the Dorsoduro, Venice |
To me this is Venice's most gorgeous neighborhood, resplendent
with historic buildings, amazing churches, picturesque little squares and
canals. Walking around in the Dorsoduro you get the concept of what Venice is
really all about. It is just the most wonderful experience, so incredibly
beautiful, and compared to the manic tourist explosion surrounding Piazza San
Marco just across the grand Canal, it feels relatively tourist free. Or at
least tourist tolerable.
There are two major art attractions in the Dorsoduro, the
Galleria dell'Accademia and the Collezione Peggy Guggenheim, each well worth
visiting. Perhaps my favorite place to visit is the spectacular Santa Maria Della Salute, the
gleaming white baroque church standing watch over the entrance to the grand
canal. As many times as I've visited Santa Maria Della Salute, it has never
failed to take my breath away.
While enjoying the Dorsoduro take time to visit Ca' Rezzonico.
Ca' Rezzonico, Dorsoduro Venice |
This house is now a "house museum" , originally built in 1667 for the
Bon family. When their money ran out the property was taken over by newly rich
banking family, the Rezzonicos somewhere around 1758. At that time the building
was two separate homes in complete disrepair. The Rezzonicos bankrolled a
glorious restoration that included Tiepolo frescoes and Flemish tapestries -
the mind bendingly ostentatious palazzo gives you a peek into the lavish life
of upper class 18th century Venice.
Restored again in the 1990's Ca' Rezzonico is known as "the
museum of 18th century Venice",
famous for it's interior decor. From the ground floor the graceful
staircase sweeps you up to the piano nobile with its huge ballroom, so ornate
it literally stops you in your tracks.
The ballroom at Ca Rezzonico, Dorsoduro Venice |
The ballroom at Ca Rezzonico, Dorsoduro Venice |
Meandering through the staterooms you
have to remind yourself that this wasn't a royal palace, instead a private
home.
The opulence doesn't stop there - two more floors hold artworks
including Tiepolos and the only Canaletto's in Venice.
Before you leave make sure you visit the lovely courtyard garden.
Another must see in the Dorsoduro is Campo Santa Margherita.
Campo Santa Margherita, Dorsoduro Venice |
Campo Santa Margherita, Dorsoduro Venice |
This
is the neighborhood's main square, and may be the liveliest in Venice. By day
busy with shoppers, locals, families, the daily market, interesting shops, bars
and restaurants, it is a lovely place to sit on tree shaded benches and watch
local life happen. By night this is the social center of the city. While most
of Venice goes quiet, Campo Santa Margherita is where the nightlife happens,
populated by students from the nearby university, and all the bright young
things from every part of the city. The bars and restaurants are fun, and it is
most definitely a great night out.
Make sure you check out my other posts in this series on Venice:
Read about The Lagoon Islands here
Read about Ca' d 'Oro here
Read about Traveling in Venice here
Make sure you check out my other posts in this series on Venice:
Read about The Lagoon Islands here
Read about Ca' d 'Oro here
Read about Traveling in Venice here
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