The Italophile's Reading List

I always seem to be reading books about people living my dream, buying homes in Italy, renovating them, and embracing life in my favorite holiday destination.

I get so caught up in their stories that I often find my way to the towns and villages that they talk about, and get to experience a completely different slice of Italy that would have otherwise been missed.

Two years ago I discovered Sutri via a book that I loved, and it has become one of my absolute favorite places of all time. Another of the books on this list guided me to the Aeolian islands off the coast of Sicily, where I found the bluest sea I have ever seen and met some of the loveliest people. I cannot wait to get back.

I love recognizing shops and restaurants talked about in books I've read, I love knowing little things like which highway exit to take or the ideal train stop to get off at because an author led me there. 

If you think you'd like to travel to Italy, but are not quite sure where, diving into a great travel essay is a magnificent place to start!

I actually have a huge library of books set in Italy, but as my office is packed into post-flood boxes right now and I can't access them, I'm going to tell you about 7 of my favorites, all of which have been read over and over, and have become a living part of the road I've traveled.

Under The Tuscan Sun by Frances Mayes.

My love of Italy was reawakened back in 1996 when this was first published. If you are heading to Tuscany this series is a must read. Mayes guides you through wonderful little towns, gives you some fabulous history and even tells you where to eat. Consider this book and it's sequels travel bibles.

Don't be swayed by the movie - both take place in Cortona, the home is called Bramasole, there were Polish workers and the protagonist is indeed called Frances, her husband is Ed. There are no other similarities. This book is a must read.

I go to Cortona every year, always lunch at Cafe Degli Artisti, and swing by Bramasole. Frances Mayes changed my life, set me a new course, and to this day feeds my Tuscan obsession.

outside Bramasole in Cortona with Ed Mayes, September 2014

1000 Days In Venice by Marlena Di Blasi

Can you imagine finding out the man of your dreams spotted you walking through a piazza on your last day in Venice a year ago, that he thought about you every day since, and now, by chance, you walk into the cafe where he is sitting with friends? 
Marlena's account of her first three years married to Fernando Di Blasi and their life together in Venice is just intoxicating. A chance meeting can result in your life path taking a 90 degree turn you never imagined making. Reading her books leaves you somewhere between wanting to be her and wanting to be her best friend. 

As with Frances Mayes, I have read all of Marlena di Blasi's books, multiple times. There always seems to be one of them living on my nightstand.

Living in A Foreign Language

Did you watch LA Law? Back in the day it was my favorite show. Actor Michael Tucker (Stuart Markowitz on the show) and his wife Jill Eikenberry also live my Italian dream, theirs in a home they have renovated in Umbria. Tucker is endlessly funny and charming, and his book is delightful.

A House In Sicily by Daphne Phelps

I found this book when I returned home from Sicily and just couldn't get that bewitching island out of my mind.

Phelps inherited a majestic home on the hill in Taormina, with a view that honestly just takes your breath away.

This the captivating story of her life, leaving dreary old England to go live in this magnificent house, Casa Cuseni. It is the story of the artists and writers who took up residence there over the years, (including Tennessee Williams, Henry Faulkner and Roald Dahl) and of the local characters who populated her world.

Last year I visited Casa Cuseni when I was back in Taormina. I was able to see the Picasso, painted there and then left behind after his stay at Daphne's home, treasures left behind by writers and artisti, even Daphne's old passports and papers. It was just fantastic.

at Casa Cuseni in Taormina. Every inch of this house, both inside and out, is just wonderful

Pasquale's Nose by Michael Rips

Michael is an American lawyer who's wife is an artist. They moved to a teeny tiny town named Sutri, famous for being the birthplace of Pontius Pilate, where Michael set up shop with his laptop outside one of the cafe's in the main piazza and observed the locals in all their glory, while his wife worked on her art.

 Rips is absolutely one of the funniest writers ever, and from what the locals told me was great fun to be around.

I went to Sutri a couple of years ago because I was so intrigued with this book and just had to experience this place. We rented a 1000 year old tower renovated by two writers and made into an exquisitely appointed apartment. Writers come live in the tower for 6 to 12 months at a time, penning all manner of important works while taking in the unbelievable views and enjoying the tranquility of a tiny, non touristy town.

prosecco o'clock in the piazza ~ writing in Sutri

Sutri is not on any tourist map, and I think we were the only non Sutrisi there. Pasquale's Nose hasn't been translated into Italian, and I was only the second person the locals had met who had read the book. It was particularly wonderful because thanks to Rips I had a town full of instant friends - word gets around tiny places fast! 

Pasquale's Nose is hilarious and well worth reading.

Halfway To Each Other by Susan Pohlman

This book came to me when the author went to speak and do a signing at my Italian group here in Phoenix. I, of course, was working and missed it, but one of my friends picked me up a copy.

When Pohlman's marriage was collapsing, she and her husband packed up their kids and their life in Orange County and moved to Liguria for a year. As much a testament to how destructive our manic, fast paced life stateside can be, this book is a wonderful example of how a sidestep into the Italian lifestyle can be healing and calming and put everything back into perspective. The year that the Pohlman's spend in Italy resets their compass, brings the family back together and breathes life back into a broken marriage.

I loved how tangible this story was. The Pohlman's now live in Arizona.

An Italian Affair by Laura Fraser

Broken after her husband of one year leaves her for an old high school flame, Fraser travels to Italy to see old friends and get a change of scenery. One of her friends tells her to go to Ischia for a few days, where she meets a Parisian professor an embarks upon an affair that lasts for years and takes place in exotic locales from Ischia to Marrakesh, Lake Maggiore to Catalina Island.

Every female who has ever had so much as a random, fleeting thought about having an affair in Italy will love this book.



If you have read any of these books, please share your thoughts about them in the comments section below! I also want to know any other books set in Italy that you may have read, so please tell me about them in the comments section.
Grazie!

What To Wear To The Market In Arezzo

Going to the market in the Italian town of Arezzo? Or any other lovely little town in Italy? 

Here is one of my favorite posts from a couple of years ago. I'm planning my wardrobe for this year's summer in Italy, and my old blog posts have been a fun place to start!

 Enjoy!

What's A Girl To Wear To The Market In Arezzo?

Every Saturday and Sunday in the Tuscan town of Arezzo the streets and piazzas become one of the most intriguing markets you will ever have the good fortune to visit.

 

 (I so wanted the Red Lady lamp, but couldn't figure out how on earth to get her home??)

Largely about furniture and housewears, exquisite laces and linens, 

the Arezzo market is not to be missed if you're in Tuscany on a weekend.

If for nothing else, you'll see treasures long hidden in the attics of the giant old Tuscan homes. 

Just touching some of the pieces you'll feel the history of generations flow through your fingers. 

Its magic.

Its also Italy.

This means a girl can't show up dressed as if for the Camden or Portobello markets in London, or the Rose Bowl market in Pasadena. There's a whole different dress code here, and its nothing short of fabulous.

Armed with my camera, I stalked the fashionistas meandering through the stalls, just to show you how killer cool and glam they really are.

Fashion statements aren't necessarily about the current trends, 

but more of how a girl carries herself and presents herself to the world, 

with her own personal flair and elan.

Before we see the outfits, its important to check out the terrain. 

Its all uphill and downhill, on flagstones, cobbles and pavers,

uneven, textured, and at  times steep.

No flat, smooth asphalt for these divas to strut their sensational stuff...

So what does the fab-u-taliana wear?

 Soft gray ostrich cowboy boots, dove gray half leg leggings, white and gray layered tanks and T's, 

trench length demin coat, Louis bag, great hair, and "the world is mine" attitude.

Do you love it??? Check out her cool shoes! Prada bag, stylish parka, pedicure.

 

super chic family! Even the bambini are decked out!

This lady had it going on! I loved her red jacket. The gloves were the perfect finishing touch.

Notice the hairdo - nicely cut and colored.

These Italiana's don't miss a single gorgeous detail.

Slim, belted, co-ordinated.

 another peep at the family

 I just loved this lady! We saw her everywhere, all morning. 

Looking like a million dollars, working those shoes!!

She still looked like perfection at the of market end too, not just first thing in the morning.

 Prada-rama. 

I loved her coat too. 

She had magnificent glasses on as well, but I couldn't get a clean shot without blowing my tourista cover.

God knows I tried...

 Channeling Marcello Mastroianni.

Even the dudes looked cool.

 What would you do with that fish thing?

I loved the cabinet behind it.

 Prada Prada Prada.

Endless Prada. Fabulous for Sunday morning.

 Stylin mama.

Isn't she just chic??

Looks like a northerner...

Burberry! A break in the Prada/Louis action - quite refreshing.

Check out how totally put together this couple is.

Age provides no barrier, gives no demarcation.

They're all just damn fab.

 Skinny jeans worn with heels, a trench, fab hair, and accessorized with a cyclist.

Think he's wearing a cod piece?

 I love those nude heels!!

Check out the height and cut of them!

She's damn fabulous, and she knows it.

Its part of the air she breathes.

Although I do consider myself to be an Olympic high heeler,

even I couldn't cut it around the market all morning, up and down the hills in these.

No way.

And these are her Sunday morning market shoes?? I need a new goal...

Sexy girl heels.

Are you seeing how high they are??? Remember the terrain (see above)

And sexy Italiana that she is, she saunters and glides with ease,

as if she were wearing flats.

Can't you feel her gait through this picture?

Its as if she were born wearing them.

I just loved her!

 I just had to get you a close up on the height.

She is my hero(ine)

The pants were very cool too.

 She eats!

Italian girls don't do the lettuce leaf, black coffee and manic hours of aerobics with a 5 mile run routine.

They eat. 

Heartily. 

And are so present in their lives, and in the pleasure of life.

They are sensational.

 And what did we wear? 

Pictured here in the piazza with the lovely Michelle, jewelry designer at Divinity Jewelry,

in jeans and boots, a turquoise trench and a beige pashmina, 

and the ever present aviators :)

Ciao ciao tutti!!

Baci!!

Where To Stay Under The Tuscan Sun

Thinking about spending some time under the Tuscan sun??

Podere Cunina standing watch over the Val D'Orcia

Every year I like to spend a few weeks in Italy.
Actually I would like to spend endless months there, but have to settle for weeks instead.
Tuscany has become my home away from home.


People always ask me where to stay in Tuscany, especially if they are not seeking out an overly homogenized hotel experience.
Personally I love to rent an apartment, rent a car and drive around Tuscany, finding endless spectacular towns and villages that aren't in the guide books.

Podere Cunina, Buonconvento, Tuscany

I like to be super close to Florence, and not too far from Rome. In a country with such a fantastic rail system, I like to be close enough to a train station that it's easy to make a last minute day trip to Venice, or maybe Pompei - wherever feels like fun that day.

one of the patios at Podere Cunina, Buonconvento, Tuscany

I like to chill out in the piazza, drink cappuccinos and watch the world go by. Shop at local markets for fresh produce,all grown inside a 10 mile radius and picked to be sold today, with flavor that just explodes in your mouth. (Unlike the flavorless factory farmed produce here in the US)
There's nothing quite like having a local vendor choose items for you, and tell you how to prepare them the way generations of their families have been doing for centuries, and then going home to your gorgeous Tuscan apartment, throwing it together and enjoying it, truly enjoying it with a local Sangiovese, or maybe a Brunello, living the luxe life.

I love filling my Italian apartment with freshly picked wildflowers and sprigs of fresh rosemary, the combined olfactory delight of which tells my brain I'm really, truly here.

My dear friend Silvana is living the life I dream of.
Together with her husband Piergiorgio she bought an old, run down farmhouse on a little hill overlooking the spectacular Val D'Orcia. They rebuilt, refurbished and restored it using traditional materials, creating a home that at the same time is visually mesmerizing, maintains historical truth but is equipped with all the modern conveniences. Its called Podere Cunina.

Beautiful Podere Cunina in Buonconvento Tuscany

The stonework, the iron work, the colors are achingly beautiful.

Part of the restoration project involved creating 7 apartments to rent to vacationers.

One of the apartments at Podere Cunina, Tuscany

Apartment at Podere Cunina, Tuscany

Apartment at Podere Cunina, outside Buonconvento Tuscany

Apartment at Podere Cunina

 There are 2 two bedroom apartments and 5 one bedroom apartments, each of which is just gorgeous.

Apartment at Podere Cunina, Tuscany

Podere Cunina is located 3 kms outside of Buonconvento, near Siena. An easy drive from either Rome or Florence it places you in the ideal location from which to drive around Tuscany and really experience the majesty of this amazing part of the world.

After a long day of enjoying yourself it is just lovely to sit out on the patio area and have a prosecco as you watch the sun set over neighboring Montalcino (one of my favorite villages in all of Italy).

The pool at Podere Cunina, near Buonconvento, Tuscany

 Wine lovers adore the region, as it is home to the Brunello, one of my all time favorite reds.

Prosecco time at Podere Cunina as the Tuscan Sun sets

Silvana is the ultimate host. She always has loads of ideas of great places to go see and experience. She always tells me about fabulous villages that the tour buses (thankfully) don't know about, is endlessly knowledgeable about where the best local markets are and when, which restaurants and cafe's you mustn't miss, and has the most wonderful stories about this spectacular slice of the world.

Lovers of Frances Mayes' Under The Tuscan Sun, and her subsequent tomes about her life in Tuscany will love driving to Cortona, which is not too far away, and spending the day walking through every moment in her delicious Tuscan world. (I think at this point I probably know her books by heart)

3 million years ago the Val D'Orcia was under the ocean, which is no doubt why the hills have the most beautiful undulating roll to them. A couple of years ago some guests were walking through the fields on the beautiful Podere Cunina property and picked up a perfectly formed shark's tooth, that scientists later dated as being 3 million years old.
You just never know what you're going to find in this wonderful place!

Summer is not the only time to enjoy Tuscany. Spring and autumn are beautiful, and this year if everything goes as planned we are hoping to touch down in Tuscany over the winter too.

If staying on a glamorous little farm is a bit to rural for you, Silvana also rents out an apartment in beautiful San Gimignano, which is my Italian home, and which I can never go a single day without thinking about.

If you would like to know more about Podere Cunina or about vacation rental in Tuscany, click this link:
 Agriturismo Podere Cunina