Eugenia Volodina for ELLE Spain

Russian model Eugenia Volodina covers the October 2013 issue of ELLE Spain.

Eugenia Volodina for ELLE Spain October 2013

Shot by Xavi Gordo

Con Vistas Al Otono

How To Use Retin-A With Sensitive Skin

Retinoids are the baseline products 

for achieving truly beautiful skin.

They are Vitamin A derivatives that unclog pores, boost collagen to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, speed up cell turnover to even out skin tone and refine the texture of the skin.

Essentially they create softer, smoother, brighter, more luminous skin.

They are amazing.

I recently wrote about Retinoids and Retin-A,

and received many inquiries from around the world about how to work with Retin-A if your skin is sensitive. 

Here are six tips for using Retin-A if you have sensitive skin.

1. Start With A Very Gentle Formula

Typically the prescription formulas are stronger and feel more abrasive, so try starting with an over the counter formula. Look for one that says "For Sensitive Skin". There are plenty of retinoids on the market that are combined with calming, anti inflammatory ingredients such as green tea extract, and humectants such as hyaluronic acids, which will hold moisture to the skin, making it less vulnerable to irritation.

(I use Nytamin-A from Estheceuticals it's super effective but also super gentle.)

2. Use A Gentle Cleanser

When you start using retinoids you need to be extra gentle with your skin, starting with your cleanser.

Instead of a foaming cleanser or a cleanser with glycolic acid/salicylic acid/AHAs/BHAs etc, opt for a very gentle cleanser. I love cleansing oils and milk cleansers, both of which will dissolve makeup and really clean the skin without stripping it.

3. Get There Slowly.

Introduce your retinoid slowly and allow your skin to build up a tolerance to it. 

If you have a sensitive skin, or if you are experiencing any burning/stinging/flaking while using a retinoid, start by only using it every 4th day for a couple of weeks. Slowly work your way up to every 3rd day, then every 2nd day. The goal is to eventally be using it every night.

Typically prescription formulas are more abrasive than over the counter formulas.

4. Try Moisturizing First

This is for prescription formulas. If they still feel abrasive apply a thin layer of moisturizer first, but again make sure it is a simple moisturizer, with no salicylics/glycolics/AHAs/BHAs. 

Over the counter formulas typically have moisturizers already in them, so can skip this step.

5. Keep It Sheer.

Particularly if you are using a prescription Retin-A cream, use a light hand. 

Ideally start with a pea sized amount for the entire face. Normally that's all you need anyway, but regardless, start with a very thin layer and give your skin a chance to get used to it.

6. Don't Combine

When you are first starting a retinoid, or if you are experiencing any irritation, don't use any other highly active products. This means no vitamin C serums, no glycolics or salicylics, no scrubs or peels until your skin has completely acclimated itself to the retinoid. You can add everything back in product by product once your skin has built up it's tolerance to the retinoid.

Passing Time ~ Alina Baikova For Canada's fashion Magazine

How exceptionally beautiful is Alina Baikova??

Here she is again, this time for Canada's Fashion Magazine,

photographed by Chris Nicholls.

The Ukrainian model stars in a story of luxuriant furs

in opulent surroundings.

Note the firm brow and the bold, strong lip.

Love it.

Passing Time

all images courtesy of FGR

Alison Nix Covers Harpers Bazaar Latin America

I just love this makeup!

Alison Nix, Harpers Bazaar Latin America

Makeup artist Vincent Oquendo offset 

the black and white palette in this Cruella de Vil

inspired shoot for the October 2013 issue and cover of Harpers Bazaar Latin America,

to absolute perfection.

His neutral hues and bold brows

take nothing away from the clothes,

and the avoidance of a stereotypical bold lip

is both refreshing and so completely elegant.

Love it.

Photographed by Jason Kim

Harpers Bazaar Latin America Cover October 2013

Cover Harpers Bazaar Latin America

ELLE Vietnam Beauty

How gorgeous is this??

Kwak Ji for ELLE Vietnam Beauty, September 2013

With five different makeup looks

executed by makeup artist Gregg Brockington,

Korean Model Kwak Ji is flawless

in the September 2013 Beauty Supplement

of ELLE Vietnam.

Photographed by Zhang Jinga

ELLE Vietnam Beauty Supplement Cover September 2013

Marc Jacobs Final Show For Louis Vuitton, Spring 2014 Paris Fashion Week

'This collection is dedicated to the women who inspire me and to the showgirl in all of us'

said Marc Jacobs of his final show for

international super-brand Louis Vuitton.

Louis Vuitton Spring 2014 PFW

The set for the final Marc Jacobs Louis Vuitton

runway show was a funereal retrospective

of some of his most magnificent previous installations.

A black lacquer catwalk clad in shearling,

a fountain, carousel, lift shafts 

and a giant Louis Vuitton clock

served as backdrop to the collection,

which too was heavily black.

And adorned.

And embellished.

Louis Vuitton Spring 2014 PFW

The story was of giant showgirl headdresses

and bold black brows.

Louis Vuitton Spring 2014

'When I look around Paris it isn't the depth of the city that takes my breath away, it's the ornamentation that dazzles,

said Jacobs, and this was reflected in the embellishment

of a simple fashion story.

Louis Vuitton jeans, embroidered with jet, pailettes, and plumes, simple boxy, fur dresses inset with panels of netting and jewels and lace. A distinct nod to the simple street fashion that women really want to wear, paired with

            a luxe excess that draws you to Louis Vuitton.

There was an homage to the enormously successful collaboration Jacobs had with Stephen Sprouse in the early years of his tenure at Louis Vuitton,

Louis Vuitton Spring 2014 Stephen Sprouse body painting

The Louis Vuitton show has been the highlight of every fashion month for me. With Marc Jacobs at the helm 

every show was spectacular. 

How can you surpass the Louis Vuitton 10 Star Hotel, the Carousel, The Elevators, The Louis Vuitton Express??

'It is not about thinking, it is about feeling... I take pleasure from things for exactly what they are, revelling in the pure adornment of beauty for beauty's sake,' Jacobs concluded

His swan song was fittingly majestic. Louis Vuitton was lucky to have him for 16 years. The showgirl in me will miss him.

Marc Jacobs at his final runway show for Louis Vuitton

Alina Baikova For L'Officiel Ukraine

Alina Baikova covers the September 2013 issue 

of L'Officiel Ukraine.

L'Officiel Ukraine Cover September 2013

Shot in the studio by Takahiro Ogawa,

this story combines killer fashion with movement and excitement.

I just love the forms that Ogawa creates.

Magic.